Each night at sundown, the Indian and Pakistani border guards put on an amazing show of lowering their respective flags, which are no more than 10 meters apart. 5 guards from each country take turns marching toward each other in a ferocious manner and then retreating with tough looking faces and gestures; appearing to dare the other to cross the border (which is a painted line at that point). As the only white man in the crowd, I was given a seat of honor in the gallery to watch this incredible spectacle. As my friend, Raja, told me – “It would not be hospitable of us to keep an obvious guest of our country from watching this event in the VIP section”. Indian and Pakistani crowds in their respective galleries cheer their guards at each stage.
